This process produces a highly potent smell based on the plant that is used. Miller Harris Couer de Fleur Chanel Chance Eau Tendre. Givenchy Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy In fragrance, though, peony is a fresh, soft floral note: uplifting, calming, working brilliantly alongside other floral notes, especially the equally delicately-petalled rose. Guerlain Shalimar By Kilian Sweet Redemption Crabtree & Evelyn Lily Perfumers love animalic notes including civet for the raw sexiness they deliver to perfumes, and for that reason its incredibly popular and found in many of the worlds most notoriously seductive scents. Fig also goes well with coconut, and other green notes. The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. The global high end perfume industry, generating $25 billion in annual sales, is readying itself for EU regulations that will come into force in early 2015. Adding a nutty quality, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like. The dahlia fragrances on the market, weve a hunch, are inspired by the show-stopping appearance of this flower, rather than its scent: its not about to take over from jasmine and rose in the perfumers arsenal, anytime soon. A little bit rubbery, sometimes. Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Donna Karan Be Delicious Gucci Guilty ClarinsEauRessourcante "It is woody and very vibrant as I love, with a mystical smoky side and a lot of strength bringing character and complexity to a perfume.. This combo is unbeatable. Woods of Windsor Lavender (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. Perfumers, in their wisdom, refer to it as orris but by whichever name, iris/orris is one of the priciest and most important perfume ingredients, worldwide. (According to cave paintings in Valencia in Spain, anyway.) Like so many juicy ingredients, passion fruits squeezed its way into many of the fruity-floral scents that have lately become so popular: tangy, a little grapefruit-y, and well-matched with other tropical scent ingredients, adding a tart intrigue. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. Guerlain Jicky Prada Prada Amber Tiar flowers are related to gardenias: luscious white florals which scent the breeze of Tahiti, worn tucked behind the ear or as garlands. Guerlain Samsara You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. Theyre incredibly bitter on the tongue, used to flavour vermouth and absinthe (if youre a Martini fan, youll get the connection instantly). Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale (Time is money, in perfumery.) As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. Cranberries and blackberries have similar aroma chemicals, but mostly, perfumers turn to one of two synthetics to recreate raspberry-ness: frambonine or raspberry ketone (which can also be used as a raspberry flavouring). It may not come as a surprise, though, to discover that this is a synthetic, or fantasy, ingredient rather than something lovely distilled from desserts, puddings or candies. ), Caron Tabac Blond Its a special treat and its packed with sunshine. Just sometimes, a fragrance is described as being indolic - which is pretty unhelpful if you dont work in the perfume world. It is like sticking bright colored flowers into my army boots. By Kilian Love by Kilian But in fact, orange blossoms versatility lends itself to all kinds of fragrances so its very widely used, acting too as a natural fixative to prolong the life of will-o-the-wisp ingredients. Herms Eau dOrange Verte Ah, sweet violets. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. Since then, lily of the valley has also made its way into countless bridal bouquets (including that of Kate Middleton for her wedding to Prince Willliam); in many countries, its linked to this day with tenderness, love, faith, happiness and purity. Serge LutensArabie Perfumers, thats who. Floris Honey Oud (Dates are one of the oldest cultivated tree crops.) There is an animalic, furry, dirty line. But its also grown in Algiers, Morocco and in Grasse, we saw Chanel experimenting with growing geranium in their fields. The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). Occasionally, Myrrh has a smoky and syrupy character. And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. The flowers themselves are really mean with their oil, though, and synthetics are more often used to recreate lily of the valleys magic: Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are among them. Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile, Koalas love it. (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a lAube Its richness allows for multiple ways to create with it,' says perfumer Caroline Sabas. Peach blossoms are much-loved by the Chinese, thought to protect against bad luck and all kinds of evil; its also a symbol of longevity. And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. Penhaligons La Violetta In some hot places, vetiver is woven into blinds and matting, which are not only wonderfully fragrant as the breeze wafts through them or theyre trodden underfoot: vetiver has cooling properties. Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Floris Wedding Bouquet Nasomatto Silver Musk The tangy oil that expressed from the (non-edible) bergamot orange, which is grown primarily in Italy. Thats the zesty, lemony burst of citral, a natural aldehyde which is present in the oil of quite a few plants, including lemon myrtle, lemongrass, lemon tea tree, lemon verbena, lemons themselves, limes, as well as orange and petitgrain (the flower of the bitter orange). Maybe. Perhaps unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and coconut. Crabtree & Evelyn Iris Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Jo Malone London Incense & Cedrat Goutal Eau dHadrien, Pink pepper is now a hot perfume ingredient (in several senses): bright, cheerful, with a woody-rosy scent thats quite different to the nose-tingling spicy warmth of the more-familiar black pepper. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne Pour le Matin Givenchy Amarige (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. The leaves and twigs give us petitgrain (read more about that here), while the cold-pressed peel of the fruit gives us bigarade (click here for more). Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Nerolis perfect in white florals, or in Colognes, which accent its citrus edge and its popular in fragrances for men, as well as for women. Bella Bellissima Arabian Rose Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. 341 Likes, 29 Comments - Amina | Visual Designer (@amina.studios) on Instagram: " FLEUR Meet 'Fleur'- a luxury perfume brand formulated with the finest ingredients. Its almost impossible to believe, actually, that this grounding, dry smell comes from the roots of a perennial grass also known as Khus-khus grass - rather than a wood. Take C7 or heptanal, naturally occurring in clary sage, with its herby-green odour. Succulent, juicy, drippingly sweet: mango works wonderfully in summer perfumes in particular, delivering that hint-of-the-tropics perfumers seek to capture in a bottle. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan Britney Spears Curious 5 As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' Its a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran almost melts into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. And its used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. Contrary to legend, aldehydes first made their fragrant debut in 1905 in a scent called Rve D'Or (Golden Dream), by Armingeat. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. "It brings extra-soul to perfumes, with the sensuous tonalities of sun-kissed skin. Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. Dior JAdore Not surprisingly, a synthetic versions often used. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Goutal Mandragore Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Yves Saint Laurent Belle dOpium. Givenchy Ysatis "I love its green, rosy, and slightly musky scent. Its spicy-floral character works perfectly in many different florals though in small quantities; a known sensitiser for a very small percentage of wearers, its one of the ingredients which perfume houses must compulsorily list on a label. Lancme La Vie Est Belle The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. (We often marvel at who must first have experimented with some of the more unusual elements in perfumery and try to imagine some of the failed experiments, too) Not surprisingly, this carnal, animalic note has since the beginning of the 20th Century for ethical and environmental reasons almost always been recreated synthetically: its really not on to kill an animal to extract a scented oil. Neroli (which you can read about under N) is steam-distilled. Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud The leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances: earthy, peppery, fruity, buttery or subtly herbal. Want an exclusive offer? (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). Caron Infini Jo Malone Black Vetyver Cafe Perfume. (You might better know it as the Seville orange tree.) Not everyone thinks they love the smell of tobacco but encountering it in a fragrance is way more sensual an experience than walking into a smokey room, or dealing with the post-party ashtray challenge. "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". Over a hundred species of honeysuckle exist and among the most fragrant are the wild English honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) the Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and Lonicera fragrantissima, which comes originally from China. If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand even Dorset. Evody Fleur dOranger Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum It has an abstract quality and has become widely used as a base note, in more complex perfumes. From the berry of the rose one of the richest sources of vitamin C, in nature rosehips floral-fruity tang mostly makes its way into feminine fragrances, and the odd masculine scent. Guerlain Samsara Lancme Aroma Tonic It has a musty-sweet, spicy aroma. Amouage Gold pour Femme Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir. (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak Jo Malone LondonWild Bluebell Patricia de Nicola Vanilla Tonka Flowers bloom on skin when theres leather in the baseof a fragrance. Sniff out a bacon fragrance for yourself, and make up your own mind! Once upon a time, frangipani was the name of an actual perfume produced by an aristocratic Roman Renaissance family by the name of Frangipani, and created by mixing orris (iris root), spices, civet and musk. Diptyque Oyedo Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. (Theres a touch of mustiness if you smell a driftwood note neat from the vial, which perfumers can cleverly round out with other ingredients.) Mostly, water in fragrance ingredient terms has come to mean an oceanic, salty/seawater vibe which is actually recreated through the use of a complicated blend of synthetics. We've also discontinued plastic samples, so you can feel good about smelling good. Vince Camuto Divina. (Though it can help to accent other herbal elements of a composition. Guerlain Shalimar (Though rums more widely used to add swagger to mens perfumery, quite a few opulent womens scents also feature a slug of this multi-faceted ingredient, which can have hints of vanilla, clove, ginger or ripe fruits). I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). Gucci Envy Many of us are familiar with blackberry-picking ourselves: the Rubus fruticosus bramble tangles itself over countless hedgerows, perfect for turning into desserts, jams, jellies and even home-made wine. To paraphrase Shakespeare, jatamansi by another name would smell as sweet and its got plenty of those other names: nard, spike, muskroot, tapaswini and sumbul are just some of the other words used for this ingredient. Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious It pumps out its fragrance at night, to attract insects. In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. ChloLEau deChlo Guerlain Mitsouko What is eau de saucepan (or aeroplane wing) doing in fragrance? Lacoste Pour Femme Its a naturally-occurring chemical, found in many essential oils especially the glorious white flowers (jasmine, orange blossom, neroli), as well as wallflowers, and some citrus fruits. You can even choose from a range of bottle and cap combinations to make your new perfume look as unique as possible. In a fragrance? Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. Este Lauder Knowing Mostly, pomelos are grown in South and South-east Asia: pale green to yellow when ripe and juicy, with flesh that doesnt have grapefruits bitter edge. And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. (Its also known as copahu balm.) But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. Diptyque LEau Trois Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud It takes a massive amount of the trees wood to produce the oil: each trees said to yield just 1%, by weight, of oil to wood. I use it whenever I want to create a transportive beach moment," says perfumer Patty Hidalgo. Did you know that the apples really a member of the rose family? The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. To the Greeks, it spelled good fortune.) Dermal sensitizer and allergen. Bobbi Brown Baby Le Labo Labdanum 18 Do you remember the smell of your school pencil case? The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Can be tinged from White to pink to deep, almost snuggly or skin-like make your new perfume as! New perfume look as unique as possible it has a musty-sweet, spicy.... 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